GETTING THERE: It is cheapest to fly to Hong Kong, with round-trip fares currently from about $1,300 on Continental from BWI, then to Sanya, on Hainan's southern end, for about $237 round trip on Dragonair. Flights from Hong Kong to Haikou, the capital city on the northern end of the island, start at $424 round trip on China Southern.
Train and ferry service also link Hainan to the mainland. The two-hour train to Zhanjiang is about $20, the overnight train to Guangzhou about $50. Info: Hainan Railway, 011-86-898-68703955. Ferries travel north (Zhanjiang), northwest (Beihai) and northeast (Guangzhou). Info: Xiuying Port in Haikou, 011-86-898-66210596.
WHEN TO GO:The best time to visit is from October to May. In June the temperature starts heading into the 90s, where it stays into September, and the summer humidity can be punishing. It's also typhoon season.
GETTING AROUND: Air-conditioned buses serve the island; one-way fare between Haikou and Sanya runs about $10. Mountain bikes are available for rent at many hotels for about $5 an hour. Rental cars cost $40 to $50 a day or more.
WHERE TO STAY:Most travelers to Hainan stay at one of Sanya's three beaches: Yalong Bay (the priciest), Sanya Bay to the west and Dadonghai in between. Rates can be negotiated, especially in the off-season. As an example of what the holidays do to prices, the 456-room Sanya Marriott Resort & Spa (Yalong Bay National Resort District, 888-236-2427, http://www.marriott.com) is charging $180 per night double for a room in late July. The same room booked now for the first week in October: $340 a night.
To enjoy the waterfront for less, the Pearl River Garden Hotel (Dadonghai, 011-86-898-88211888, http://www.sinohotel.com), a favorite of Chinese tourists, has 235 rooms and suites, a large pool, health club and bar. A sea-view room averages $75 per night double.
In Haikou, about two-thirds of a mile from the beach, the Haikou Hostel (011-86-898-66286780, http://www.haikouhostel.com) has modest comforts -- TV lounge, pool table, laundry service, and a restaurant and bar -- at $12 a night for an air-conditioned double room with attached bath; $13.75 in high season.
WHERE TO EAT: In Sanya's Chun Yuan market square, you can select fresh seafood and have it grilled by a street vendor, with a beer and a side of vegetables, for about $20. For a seafaring lunch, head out to Wuzhizhou Island in Haitang Bay, which has restaurants serving local seafood. Expect to pay $15 to $25 per person, plus ferry fare of about $16 round trip.
In Haikou, Jinlong Road is a hub of China's various cuisines, as well as other Asian cuisines such as Thai. Haikou is also a good place to sample the island's chicken, duck, mutton and crab specialties. For tablecloth dining, Jinghao Restaurant has four locations serving a full menu of seafood, meat and fowl.
INFO: China National Tourist Office, 888-760-8218, http://www.cnto.org. Two informative commercial sites: Sanya Holiday Travel Service Co., 011-86-898-88200128, http://www.sunnysanya.com, and TravelChinaGuide.com, https://www.travelchinaguide.com; click on "China City Guide."
-- Margaret Roth
