On
the beautiful wooded Yu'an Mountain, only twelve kilometers (seven
miles) northwest of Kunming, is the famous Buddhist Qiongzhu Temple.
The temple and the bamboo forest that surround it have a wonderful
and mysterious legend about their origins.
During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), Yunnan was a separate country
called Dali. One day, while two brothers of royal lineage were hunting
in the hills outside Kunming, they spotted a bizarre rhinoceros.
With hopes of capturing it, they followed the rhinoceros deep into
the woods of Yu'an Mountain where the magical animal suddenly disappeared.
Just as they lost sight of the rhinoceros, the brothers saw a group
of monks who were unlike any monks they had seen before. When the
monks saw the brothers, they vanished in clouds leaving only their
walking sticks planted in the ground. By the following day, these
walking sticks had become an entire bamboo forest. The amazed brothers
knew that they had met enlightened, supernatural beings and, in
order to honor them, they built Qiongzhu Temple in the forest of
bamboo.
Even though this is a marvelous story, it does not follow the
historic record. Account of the Qiongzhu Temple dates back to the
Song Dynasty, but it was during the Yuan Dynasty (around 1280) that
a highly renowned monk, who was reputed to have learned Buddhism
from central China, gave his teachings that brought great fame to
the temple as a spiritual center. After a devastating fire, the
Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty rebuilt the temple by adding
five pavilions during the late 1880's. The temple's most outstanding
artistic (and perhaps spiritual) feature is the distinguished, finely
crafted statues of the 500 Luohans (Buddhist Arhats, or 'enlightened
ones') sculpted by the brilliant artist, Li Guangxiu.
Regarded
as 'a pearl in the treasure house of oriental sculpture,' these
life-size clay figures came from Li Guangxiu's and his apprentices'
deep study of people and their inner personalities. After seven
years of study and work, this immense undertaking was completed.
Each of these statues represents another aspect of human life
with such accuracy and skill, and look like real people who are
just frozen in a moment in time.
These Luohans, which are not ornately decorated, depict seemingly
common people in the midst of ordinary lives and feelings. The appearances
of the old and the young, the sick and the healthy, the skilled
and the unskilled, the strong and the emaciated, the beautiful and
the ugly, the wealthy and the poor, with expressions of joy, anger,
laughter, grief, amusement, satisfaction, hunger, delight, sadness,
compassion, serenity, curiosity, surprise, boredom, and contemplation
are extremely vivid. Each Luohan is unique and expresses its own
singular inner character. It is said that if you pick a Louhan and
count them to the right when you reach your age, you will find the
Louhan that depicts your inner character. Each of the 500 Louhans
is a beautiful work of art and collectively they are awe-inspiring.
Throughout
the temple are numerous inscriptions and couplets on columns and
tablets. These inscriptions date back to the 1200's and give us
glimpses into the life and culture of those times. Other notable
features of the Qiongzhu Temple include: the statues of Four Guardian
Kings in the entrance hall; the three large statues of Buddha
in the main temple building and two majestic 450-year-old cypress
trees that stand in the forecourt. Walking around the grounds
and through the bamboo forest, the world and its problems fade
away and the gentle beauty of life re-emerges.
Qiongzhu Temple is a restorative, peaceful and beautiful attraction
offering natural, artistic and cultural insight. What a wonderful
way to spend a few hours!