Joy-in-Farming Pavilion (Lenongxuan)
Halfway up the eastern slope of Longevity Hill in the Summer Palace, tucked away from the main paths, lies a remarkably unassuming retreat. It lacks surrounding walls or vermilion lacquer. Decaying wood, faded paintings, and distorted doors create a simple, rough, and rustic aesthetic that stands in stark contrast to the opulent, manicured imperial gardens on the front hill. Without a deliberate search, one would almost certainly overlook it. This place is called the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion.
The story of the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion originates from Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908)'s humiliating flight westward. In 1900, as the Eight-Power Allied Forces thundered closer to Beijing, Cixi and Emperor Guangxu (1871-1908) spent a sleepless night. Before dawn on August 21, they hurriedly changed into coarse clothing. The Empress Dowager wiped off her makeup, disguised herself as an ordinary peasant woman, and boarded a crude mule cart with the emperor. It was the first and only time she left the capital she had ruled for forty years as a fugitive.
They took temporary shelter in an obscure village, starving. The villagers recognized this "ordinary old woman" but did not expose her; instead, they silently offered a basket of corn buns. Cixi took the coarse food. As she took the first bite, the rough corn grains scraped her palate, mingling with the rustic aroma steamed by firewood. In that moment, she suddenly understood the true meaning of “every grain earned through toil.”
In 1902, the Empress Dowager returned to the capital in a grand procession. Yet, the nights in that small village, the rough but warm corn buns, and the rustic farmhouses lingered in her mind. Perhaps to remember that difficult journey, to remind herself of the ancestral teaching that "agriculture is the foundation," or simply to capture a fleeting sense of pastoral charm, she ordered to build a garden on the eastern foot of Longevity Hill, modeled after a farmhouse.
The craftsmen avoided glazed tiles and red lacquer, instead using grey bricks for walls and stone slices for roofing. The "tiger-skin stone" walls looked rugged and simple, while the blue slate roof exuded a countryside vibe. The painted decorations imitated folk styles, lacking the opulence of royal gardens but possessing the tranquil air of a hermit's retreat.
Upon completion, the Empress Dowager personally named it. Initially called "Ruyi Village"—implying "according to the people's will and heaven's will"—it was later changed to "Joy-in-Farming Pavilion".
After the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion was built, Cixi often stayed there. During spring ploughing, she ordered servants to till the soil and sow corn, sorghum, and vegetables. Occasionally, she changed into plain clothes and held a hoe, walking through the fields. Of course, this was mostly a performance—maids did the actual work while the Empress Dowager posed.
Time passed, the Qing Dynasty fell, and a century flew by. Today, this small courtyard no longer serves any political function. Though renovated, the interior remains closed to tourists for protection, with doors usually shut.
However, the courtyard remains open. Especially from mid-February to early March, when the dozen or so century-old wintersweet trees come into bloom, buds tighten on the branches, and against the bite of frost, the trees glow pale gold. The courtyard fills with a cold, subtle fragrance through the wintersweet season, attracting countless visitors. Some take photos, some stop before the steles, and others breathe quietly under the eaves—that cold, subtle fragrance seems to travel through a century, taking people back to that pastoral dream.
Mid-February to early March. According to the latest observations in 2026, the flower volume has increased significantly compared to previous years, and the overall flowering period is expected to last until early March.
8:00 - 11:00: Soft light, fewer crowds, and the most intense fragrance. Ideal for shooting images with a soft-focus effect.
13:00 - 15:00: Best for side-backlighting photography. At this time, the wintersweet petals are illuminated, creating strong dimensionality. Meanwhile, the doors and windows of the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion remain in shadow, forming a striking contrast with the yellow flowers.
Admission: Entrance ticket only, pricing CNY 20–30.
Opening Hours:
Nov 1 – Mar 31: 7:00–17:00. Last entry 16:00.
Apr 1 – Oct 31: 6:30–19:00. Last entry 18:00.
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| The pavallion is on the east slope of Longevity Hill. |
The story of the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion originates from Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908)'s humiliating flight westward. In 1900, as the Eight-Power Allied Forces thundered closer to Beijing, Cixi and Emperor Guangxu (1871-1908) spent a sleepless night. Before dawn on August 21, they hurriedly changed into coarse clothing. The Empress Dowager wiped off her makeup, disguised herself as an ordinary peasant woman, and boarded a crude mule cart with the emperor. It was the first and only time she left the capital she had ruled for forty years as a fugitive.
They took temporary shelter in an obscure village, starving. The villagers recognized this "ordinary old woman" but did not expose her; instead, they silently offered a basket of corn buns. Cixi took the coarse food. As she took the first bite, the rough corn grains scraped her palate, mingling with the rustic aroma steamed by firewood. In that moment, she suddenly understood the true meaning of “every grain earned through toil.”
In 1902, the Empress Dowager returned to the capital in a grand procession. Yet, the nights in that small village, the rough but warm corn buns, and the rustic farmhouses lingered in her mind. Perhaps to remember that difficult journey, to remind herself of the ancestral teaching that "agriculture is the foundation," or simply to capture a fleeting sense of pastoral charm, she ordered to build a garden on the eastern foot of Longevity Hill, modeled after a farmhouse.
The craftsmen avoided glazed tiles and red lacquer, instead using grey bricks for walls and stone slices for roofing. The "tiger-skin stone" walls looked rugged and simple, while the blue slate roof exuded a countryside vibe. The painted decorations imitated folk styles, lacking the opulence of royal gardens but possessing the tranquil air of a hermit's retreat.
Upon completion, the Empress Dowager personally named it. Initially called "Ruyi Village"—implying "according to the people's will and heaven's will"—it was later changed to "Joy-in-Farming Pavilion".
After the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion was built, Cixi often stayed there. During spring ploughing, she ordered servants to till the soil and sow corn, sorghum, and vegetables. Occasionally, she changed into plain clothes and held a hoe, walking through the fields. Of course, this was mostly a performance—maids did the actual work while the Empress Dowager posed.
Time passed, the Qing Dynasty fell, and a century flew by. Today, this small courtyard no longer serves any political function. Though renovated, the interior remains closed to tourists for protection, with doors usually shut.
However, the courtyard remains open. Especially from mid-February to early March, when the dozen or so century-old wintersweet trees come into bloom, buds tighten on the branches, and against the bite of frost, the trees glow pale gold. The courtyard fills with a cold, subtle fragrance through the wintersweet season, attracting countless visitors. Some take photos, some stop before the steles, and others breathe quietly under the eaves—that cold, subtle fragrance seems to travel through a century, taking people back to that pastoral dream.
Travel Tips for Viewing Wintersweet at Joy-in-Farming Pavilion
Flowering Phase & Best Viewing Time
Best Time of Day
13:00 - 15:00: Best for side-backlighting photography. At this time, the wintersweet petals are illuminated, creating strong dimensionality. Meanwhile, the doors and windows of the Joy-in-Farming Pavilion remain in shadow, forming a striking contrast with the yellow flowers.
Tickets & Hours
Opening Hours:
Nov 1 – Mar 31: 7:00–17:00. Last entry 16:00.
Apr 1 – Oct 31: 6:30–19:00. Last entry 18:00.
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- Last updated on Jun. 26, 2026 by Jally Zhang -