Yangshuo Rock Climbing Guide - Best Places, Routes, Time
5 Best Places for Rock Climbing in Yangshuo
1. Moon Hill – For Intermediate and Professional Climbers
It is the earliest and most attractive natural rock climbing site in Yangshuo. Up to now, there have been 15 routes, 8 on the straight wall, 2 on the left and right sides of the hill, and 4 in the transition area from the arch to the straight wall, with varying degrees. The rock wall is relatively broken. One needs to wear a climbing helmet and be aware of falling rocks.
Elevation: about 380 meters (450 yards)
Number of Routes: 15
How to Get There: Rent a bike to Moon Hill from Yangshuo County, which takes around 15 minutes.
2. Wine Bottle Crag - For Intermediate Climbers
Named due to the mountain shaping like a bottle, Wine Bottle Crag has more than 20 climbing lines. The first 2 are easy; the difficulty of routes 3 and 4 is 5.9, and of routes 5 and 6 is 5.10a, which are good choices for beginners. Be careful when climbing Route 9 because it is easy to fall off when you climb over the cabin. Route 10 has two sections along a large crack.
Elevation: about 150 meters (165 yards)
Difficulty: 5.6 - 5.11
Number of Routes: 20
How to Get There: Take minibus from Yangshuo County to Gaotian, get off at the entrance of Butterfly Spring Park, which is directly opposite the Wine Bottle Crag. Cross the path in the field to reach the bottom of the rock wall.
3. Gold Cat Cave - For Beginners
There are 6 routes in total, suitable for amateur climbers in Yangshuo. Routes 1 and 2 are top rope routes for beginners. Route 3 has a height of 18 meters and a difficulty of 5.8. Routes 4 and 5 start from large eaves with the deep vertical and horizontal cracks. Route 6 is the most complicated, starting at the bottom of the right side of the eaves and must be turned to the left to continue climbing.
Difficulty: 5.7 - 5.10c
Number of Routes: 6
How to Get There: Take the minivan to Gaotian from Yangshuo Coach Station, and get off at Golden Cat Cave.
4. Swiss Cheese - For All Types of Climbers
Because the surface of the wall has many pits and seems like cheese, it is called “Swiss Cheese”. It is the nearest Yangshuo climbing fields with several relatively simple routes. Many bamboos grow under the rock wall, and it is quite cool here in summer and suitable for rock climbing in hot days.
Elevation: about 260 meters (285 yards)
Difficulty: 5.6 - 5.10a
Number of Routes: 22
How to Get There: Take the minivan to Swiss Cheese, which takes around 10 minutes.
5. Thumb Peak - For Intermediate Climbers
The peak is called the Thumb Pesk by the climbers because of its shape resembling a thumb. The left trad climing route is about 130 meters (142 yards) high, and needs to be divided into five pitches for group climbing. On the right is the “Happy New Year” Sporting Climbing area developed in 2001, which has 5 pitch “Happy New Year” routes and 9 other routes.
Elevation: about 150 meters
Difficulty: 5.6 - 5.12a
Number of Routes: 18
How to Get There: Take the minivan to Gaotian from Yangshuo county, and get off at Muzhi Feng.
Best Time for Rock Climbing in Yangshuo
September and October in Autumn is considered the best time for Yangshuo climbing with little rain. The heat has passed, and the cold winter has not yet arrived. You are not suggested to go there at rainy days.
Read more about Yangshuo Weather
Yangshuo Climbing Festival
Since the first session in 2008, Yangshuo Climbing Festival has been held every year and has become the largest climing festival in China. The festival time is often late October to early November, when rock climbers from all over the world gather to enjoy climbing.
Yangshuo Climbing Tips
1. Basic Knowledge on Climbing Grades
The difficulty of level 5 or above cannot be accurately divided by the Yosemite Decimal System. According to the general guidelines, it can be divided into:
5.0 – 5.7: Most of the beginners are suitable for this category. It is easy for experienced climbers.
5.8 – 5.9: The climbers are required to master certain techniques. It is not very difficult for experienced climbers to cope with.
5.10: Amarteur climbers can make it, requiring climbers to master and apply various techniques.
5.11 – 5.15c: Expert field. Need a lot of professional and hard training to achieve it.
2. What to Pack for Climbers in Yangshuo
Seat belts, descenders, risers, iron locks, at least 30 quick-hanging, 2-3 60-meter long main ropes, helmets and rope sets. The climbing base provides climbing equipment for renting. You can also buy equipment you need in the sports equipment and outdoor shops in West Street in Yangshuo.
Recommended Climbing Clubs in Yangshuo
Karst Climber: It is one of the earliest rock climbing clubs in Yangshuo with accumulated good reputation. You can meet many other climbers in Yangshuo there.
Black Rocking Climbing: They have complete equipment. The professional coaches are very patient.
Blue Sky Rocking Climbing: Half-day, one-day and 3-day courses are provided to beginners.
Insight Adventures: They provide help for school students in groups.