Phoenix Ancient City, Fenghuang

Phoenix Ancient City, or Fenghuang Ancient Town, is a preferred destination for tourists to enjoy ancient buildings and experience the life atmosphere of a Chinese old town. It is nestled in the mountains, with Tuojiang River stretching diagonally from the northwest to southeast. Distinctive stilted houses stand along the river; well-preserved bluestone streets and alleys as well as ancient buildings from the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing dynasties (1644-1912) are all worth visiting. Quiet daytime and busy night jointly leave unforgettable memories for every visitor.

Overlook Phoenix Ancient City from High

The ancient town is a one-hour high speed train ride from Zhangjiajie. It does not charge admission fees without fixed entrances or exits, meaning that you can enter through any small alley. The town is not large in scale, about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) long from east to west, which can be walked through in 40 minutes; from north to south, it is about 1 km (0.6 mi). Main attractions are concentrated on both sides of Tuojiang River, with the upper to middle reaches as the core sightseeing area. It can only be visited on foot; actually, cars cannot run within the scenic area due to narrow and rugged roads.
  During the day, not many people can be seen in the ancient city, offering a great opportunity to enjoy the scenery at your own pace.
 Tuojiang River is a life force of local people. Along the 2.5-km-long (1.6-mi) footpath by the river, you can see:

 Rows of stilt houses built by the water
The whole picture of stilt houses stretching about 240 meters (787.4 feet) is displayed from the other side of the river. 3-floor wooden houses are supported by wooden pillars on the ground, some of which even go straight into the river. As traditional folk residences of the Miao ethnic group, they catch everyone’s attention with unique shapes, exquisite decoration, and a long history of over 300 years. Nowadays, there are still people living inside.

Stilt Houses by the Water

 Ancient bridges connecting both shores
Multiple ancient bridges of different shapes span Tuojiang River, serving as both river crossing channels and viewing platforms as well as popular photo spots.

Among them, Hongqiao, or Rainbow Bridge, built in 1670, is a landmark, with a total length of 112 meters (122.5 yards). The bridge body is made of vermilion sandstone, looking like a beautiful rainbow. The first floor of the bridge works as a walking passage, where shops selling specialties and snack stalls on both sides welcome guests every day; ascending to the sightseeing level above, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Tuojiang River.

Rainbow Bridge

 Stepping stones arranged across the river
Dozens of neatly arranged bluestone piers are laid steadily side by side in the river, stretching about 100 meters (109.4 yards) to form a special bridge. Built in 1704, it was once the main gateway to and from the Phoenix Ancient City. The moderate distance between any two slabs makes it feasible for pedestrians to cross the river step by step while seeing the water flowing under their feet. There are no railings on either side, creating a slight dizziness but does not make people afraid. 

Stepping Stones

 Wanming Pagoda
Standing on the north bank of the Tuojiang River, Wanming Pagoda is a 23-meter-high (75.5-foot) seven-storey ancient pagoda whose upper part gradually tapers. The tower is built of grey bricks, engraved with exquisite patterns and famous couplets. Flying eaves and hanging copper wind chimes decorate each storey. The predecessor of the tower is a paper burner, representing people’s respect for calligraphy and painting and their reverence for literature in ancient times. In 1988, it was rebuilt with public donations. The tower is currently not open to visitors.

Wanming Pagoda

Snack Stall

 Morning mist over the river
Every morning around sunrise, thin white mist rises over Tuojiang River, as a special reward for tourists going out early. All buildings shrouded in mist are faintly visible, making people feel like entering an ink landscape painting. Occasionally, a small wooden boat glides across the water and cuts through the thin mist. There is almost no one but only residents washing clothes on the shore. The downstream of Wind Bridge works as the best viewing spot.

Tourist Map of Fenghuang Ancient Town

 Narrow alleys paved with bluestone slabs crisscross to connect the riverside, old houses, and various small shops; every turn leads to a new scene. Sometimes, you encounter residents chatting at the door or tourists sketching absorbedly. 

Local Miao People Selling Embroidery

Deep in these alleys, well-preserved local celebrity residences are scattered, such as Shen Congwen’s Former Residence, Xiong Xiling’s Former Residence, and Yang Family Ancestral Hall. Those courtyards are typical traditional residences in western Hunan, with carved wooden windows and gatehouses. Visitors only need to prepare 10 – 20 minutes for each, as they are not large. 

Shen Congwen’s Former Residence

Yang Family Ancestral Hall

Besides, Fenghuang Ancient City preserves a section of ancient city wall, approximately 1.58 km (1 mi) long, with two tower gates. Old houses line one side, and Tuojiang River flows on the other. 

City Wall

Gate Tower

After nightfall, thousands of lights lit up the whole city, turning night into day: this is the moment when all tourists flock out. Just join them to:
 It’s the best way to enjoy the night view of the ancient city. Board a boat from the North Gate Pier and slowly sail down the river; the magnificent scenery on both sides unfolds before your eyes. During the 20-minute one-way boat ride, you can view a live performance featuring local culture up close in the middle of the Tuojiang River. Although it can also be seen from the shore, the boat offers a better experience. 

Tuo Jiang River Cruise Boat

It’s normal to queue up for at least 1 hour during travel high season. Tourists can also get on board at the other end, Longevity Palace, where the queues can usually be shorter.

Daytime boats are also available, but no performance can be seen; accordingly, the ticket price is lower.

Get on Board at North Gate Pier

 Other than by the river, it’s also a good choice to admire the glorious landscape from high points, among which Fenghuang Bridge and Nanhua Bridge offer the best views. Or ascend Nanhua Mountain to overlook the whole city in orange lights like a winding luminous ribbon.
 The joy of the ancient city continues late into the night. If you do not want to return to the hotel too early, spend a relaxing time at a bar on either side of the Tuojiang River, with live music and dances. There are also some quieter folk pubs, where you can lean against the window to enjoy the river breeze.

Water Curtain Fountain on Tuojiang River

 It’s a must-do for almost every tourist coming to Fenghuang. In the ancient town, shops renting out Miao clothing can be found everywhere, offering a full set of accessories as well as makeup services. It doesn’t cost too much, from around CNY 100. Even so, decide on a shop before thinking twice, and make clear whether there are any additional charges. Following shots are available; just pay extra. The stilt houses, jumping rocks, Wanming Pagoda, and Rainbow Bridge are all photogenic locations. 

Take Photos in Miao Clothes

Miao Costume Shops

 A whole day with a night is suitable for experiencing both bustle and tranquility; people with tight schedules can stay for one night to enjoy nightlife only. If you prefer a relaxing trip, 2 days and a night are enough.

Local People Doing Bamboo Pole Dance

Longevity Palace

 Phoenix Ancient City is connected with nearby popular destinations like Zhangjiajie and Changsha by frequent bullet trains. Many major cities in China, including Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, and Chengdu, also have direct high speed trains to Fenghuang, about 1 – 3 departures a day. 

Fenghuang Ancient Town Railway Station

See also:
How to Travel between Changsha and Fenghuang
How to Travel between Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang
How to Travel between Fenghuang and Guilin

 How to transfer to Fenghuang Ancient Town from high speed train station
The two places are about 11.5 km (7.1 mi) apart. Many hotels or homestays offer free shuttle services; you can confirm with the one you booked ahead of time. Or choose from the following ways:
 
1. By shuttle bus: most frequently used
The non-stop bus runs at 7:00 - 22:00 daily with a headway of 30 minutes at CNY 7. Just go to the ticket center following the direction boards signed “Inter-city Shuttle Bus” after getting off the bullet train. The bus heads to two separate tourist centers, Qifeng Square and Nanhuali. Ask your hotel staff first and choose the nearer one. 

It normally takes about 0.5 hours on board, which may be extended to 1 hour during rush hours, as traffic congestion often occurs around the town.

For the return journey from Phoenix Ancient City to Fenghuang Ancient Town Railway Station, you can ride a bus at Nanhuali Tourist Center.

2. By taxi
It’s easy to hail a taxi at high speed train station. The 15-minute ride costs about CNY 20 – 30. To note that cars are not allowed to enter the scenic area, so the taxi driver will drop you off near your hotel. Besides, choose licensed taxis rather than private cars. Online car hailing like Didi doesn’t work there. 

3. By maglev express train 
Recommended for tourists with plenty of spare time. Because it runs above ground, the maglev train allows passengers to appreciate the natural beauty during the 20-minute journey. At the terminal station, you have the opportunity to admire a panoramic view of the ancient city at the sightseeing platform. It costs CNY 28 for a one-way ride and CNY 48 for a return journey.

To note that the train terminates at a spot 3.3 km (2.1 mi) away from the core area of the ancient town. Passengers need to transfer to a shuttle bus, which takes 15 minutes to the tourist center of the scenic area and costs CNY 7.
 Changsha and Jishou have coaches to Fenghuang County Coach Terminal, 2.3 km (1.4 mi) away from Phoenix Ancient City scenic area, which can be reached by city bus Line 1.

Daytime Sightseeing Boat

 A lot of hotels and homestays are offered in and around the town; however, the rich scenery and long-lasting nightlife call for suitable accommodations based on your sightseeing needs and environmental expectations for a good experience.
 Located in the core area, it’s the most lively section, allowing tourists to shuttle between attractions and hotels easily at any time. Sitting on the balcony or rooftop, you can see the river view. However, the noise below always lasts until early morning, and the rooms can be a little damp and small, with poor sound insulation. Therefore, they are recommended to young travelers and first-time visitors who pursue a busy atmosphere. 
 The homestays there can only hear a little noise, which ensures high sleep quality. At the same time, it takes only 5 - 10 minutes to walk to the riverside. The only drawback is that you need to pass through undulating stone pavements; for those carrying large luggage or suitcases, it can be somewhat challenging.
 They are good options for family groups and travelers requiring a quiet sleep environment. Newly built chain hotels are gathered, with bigger rooms and better facilities as well as lower prices. Some boast a river view while stay far away from the noisy area. Those close to Nanhuali Tourist Center also enjoy convenient external transportation. But tourists need to walk over 1 km (0.6 mi) to the core area.

It’s highly recommended to book online before you go, at least 1 - 2 weeks in advance during public holidays and peak seasons, and 1 - 2 days in low seasons.

Stroll along Valleys

 April to May and September to October, except for May Day holiday during May 1 - 5 and National Day holiday in October 1 – 7, serve as the ideal time, with a comfortable climate and charming scenery. It sees high temperatures of 26 - 34℃ (78.8 – 93.2℉) from June to August, when flooding easily occurs. From December to February, the weather gets humid and cold; in the coldest January, the temperature remains 2 - 5℃ (35.6 - 41℉), with occasional snowfall, but tourists are rare during this period.

You can refer to the weather conditions of Changsha or Zhangjiajie, both of which are close to the ancient town, for your Fenghuang trip.

Quiet View during the Day

 1. Operation hours of night cruise
Boat: 19:30 - 23:30
Performance: 19:30 - 23:00, with each session lasting about 20 minutes, in a loop
2. Pack non-slip and light shoes for rugged and slippery walkways with a lot of steps in the scenic area. 

Slippery Walkways after the Rain

3. Be prepared that you will always meet photographers and salesmen from Miao costume shops.
4. The ancient town truly resembles a large outdoor photo studio after nightfall, even until midnight. To avoid crowds, you can walk downstream to enjoy the scenery near Wind Bridge and Mist Bridge. 
5. Nanhuali Tourist Center offers luggage service.

Ticket Center

Check the Ticket to Enter Ancient Building

 The ancient city is open all day. With no fixed entry or exit points, it allows free access at any time.

Ticket Type	Price (CNY)
Night Cruise	148
Daytime Boat	85
Shen Congwen’s Former Residence	45
Longevity Palace	25
Nanhua Mountain	68 for daytime; 38 for night
Package: Night Cruise + Ancient Building Package (Shen Congwen’s Former Residence, Xiong Xiling’s Former Residence, Longevity Palace, Yang Family Ancestral Hall, East Gate Tower, Ancient City Museum)	188
Package: Daytime Cruise + Ancient Building Package (Shen Congwen’s Former Residence, Xiong Xiling’s Former Residence, Longevity Palace, Yang Family Ancestral Hall, East Gate Tower, Ancient City Museum)	128

 Where to buy: No online platform is available. You can purchase at the ticket office at the entrance of each scenic spot or at Nanhuali/ Qifeng Square Tourist Center. Or ask your hotel owner, who may offer discounted tickets.

Further Reading
Top Things to Do in Zhangjiajie
Top 10 Ancient Cities in China
How to Enjoy Nightlife in Zhangjiajie